![]() | ||
|
|
10 Coolest Mountain Towns Is it the thin air? The views? The thousands of skiable acres? Whatever the reason, here are our favorite places to live the high life.
Whistler, British Columbia ![]() I laughed, since misfortune is always funnier when it happens to someone else. But my trip back to the hotel hadn't exactly been linear, either. In the 16 hours preceding last call at Garfinkel's, we'd bitten many of Whistler's countless hooks. First on the mountain, where lift-served terrain evokes both the open snowfields of the Alps and the mystic glades of the Rockies. Then in the village, where all the skier essentials -- lifts, good grub, free-flowing drinks, and hangover cures (strong coffee and legal-in-Canada aspirin with codeine) -- lie within easy walking distance. You won't find Whistler-level skiing mated with a Whistler-level village anywhere else in the world. Trust me, I've searched. If memory serves, we began the morning in the Sundial, a boutique hotel where the spacious rooms are equipped with kitchens and, in my case, a hot tub on the balcony. Looking out onto the village, it's tough to believe that 28 years ago, it was a dump -- literally. Whistler became skiing's signature village in 1980 because it employed competent planners to develop a huge chunk of buildable land at the base of the peaks. And despite the whopping 5,400 rooms today, Whistler doesn't look like a megaresort. The layout was designed to maximize sunlight and mountain views, and it incorporates gazebos, ivy, balconies, and other homey touches. From the lodge, we shouldered our skis and trudged -- for all of four minutes -- to the Whistler Village Gondola, which launched us above the timberline to 6,069 feet. We skied a brief intermediate run to the high-speed Peak chair and three minutes later found ourselves atop Whistler's summit. Below us yawned a 5,000-vertical-foot descent, which easily would be the biggest in North America were it not for Blackcomb, the resort's other giant massif, and its 5,280 feet -- an even mile of vert. That's like an Alta stacked on top of a Breckenridge. Whistler's summit affords gobsmacking views of the Coast Mountains: row after row of sparkling peaks stacked against the horizon like sharks' teeth. We buckled down our boots and dropped into Whistler Bowl, blasting down the raw, treeless glacier where few moguls litter the descents and a whopping 30 feet of snow fall per year. When our thighs started whimpering for mercy around four o'clock, Rob and I skied down, down, and then down some more to the base. We sprayed curtains of slush with a triumphant hockey stop, clicked out of our bindings, and walked maybe 20 yards to the sun-splashed patio of the Garibaldi Lift Co. Bar & Grill, an iconic Whistler watering hole. Rob guzzled a Kootenay beer, while I slurped down a Caesar, the vodka-and-Clamato-juice mix that's considered Canada's national cocktail. The key to enjoying the village is to make a decision and run with it. We knew that mulling every possibility from tandoori to Big Macs would get us nowhere, not with 93 different bars and restaurants. If we chose decisively tonight, we could address any missing wants the next night. That night we tried Trattoria Di Umberto, because it came highly recommended and was, inevitably, only steps away from the hotel. Two hours later, we waddled out, gorged on red meat and red wine. Then came martinis at Tommy Africa's -- famous for its go-go dancers and tiki torches -- and beers at Amsterdam Cafe Pub, a cozy joint that would feel like a neighborhood bar if the neighborhood in question lacked cars. We finally wound up at Garfinkel's. I don't know exactly how we misplaced each other. When the bouncers finally coaxed me outside after last call, I lingered a while. About 20 other people did, too. They were chatting, skateboarding, spinning about on townie bikes, and generally basking in the base village that's known the world over as the ultimate skier's idyll. --Rob Story Whistler Blackcomb (lift tickets from $59 per day; 866-218-9690, whistlerblackcomb.com). Sundial Boutique Hotel (from $449; 800-661-2321, sundialhotel.com).
Sandpoint, Idaho WHERE TO STAY: The Inn at Sand Creek is a good example of creative re-use typical of Sandpoint: It's housed in a 100-year-old building that used to be the town bank ($125; 208-255-2821, innatsandcreek.com). --eric hansen
Valdez, Alaska WHERE TO STAY: Blueberry Mary's B&B has an unobstructed view of the sound and plush featherbeds ($100; 907-835-5015, home.gci.net/~blueberrymary). --Lolly Merrell
Livingston, Montana WHERE TO STAY: Time stands still at the century-old Murray Hotel, a former haunt of Will Rogers (from $72; 406-222-1350, murrayhotel.com). --John Byorth
South Lake Tahoe, California WHERE TO STAY: Nearly every room has a stunning view at Harveys, the tallest hotel in Tahoe (from $59; 800-427-7247, ). --Gwen Kilvert
North Conway, New Hampshire WHERE TO STAY: Surrounded by national forest and near ski lifts at Cranmore, White Mountain Hotel and Resort has the wildest location in town (from $89; 800-533-6301, whitemountainhotel.com). --E.H.
Park City, Utah WHERE TO STAY: The all-suite Hotel Park City, five minutes from all three resorts, has ski valet service (from $699 in season, $199 off season; 888-999-0098, hotelparkcity.com). --Sarah Tuff
Telluride, Colorado It's the first day of a weeklong spring ski trip, and we've just landed at Telluride's highest lift-served chunk of real estate, 12,255 feet above southern Colorado. Well over 200 inches of snow have already accumulated here -- more than any winter in nearly a decade. Kristen prattles on about the area's historical beginnings, telling us that Telluride is still very much defined by its past: After the silver and gold rush began in the 1870s, it had more millionaires per capita than Manhattan. We perk up when we hear that Butch Cassidy pulled off his first-ever heist here, and that eventually miners took up skiing as a means of transportation to their favorite bordello. In 1972, a Beverly Hills businessman made the spot respectable by opening a small, bare-bones ski area with five chair lifts. As far as mountain towns go today, it doesn't get more authentic than Telluride: The more things change here, the more they stay the same. Snow is the new gold, skiers are as badass as their bank-robbing forefathers, and the town looks like it did a century ago. Historic-preservation laws protect the Victorian homes and red-brick storefronts that line Telluride's dozen streets, all jammed into a pristine box canyon. High above it, we traverse to a spot known as Joint Point, on the side of the mountain where trails for experts without a death wish plunge toward town. Kristen, who traded college for skiing 14 years ago and now sports a permanent mountain tan, fills us in on Telluride's modern era. The resort now has two gondolas, 16 lifts, and a mountain village with three hotels on the other side of the hill from town. The aptly named Joint Point is where local skiers used to engage in their favorite illicit pastime, Kristen says -- further evidence that the wild west lives on. From the Joint Point, we can take See Forever, whose signature feature is its eye-level shot of the San Juans and aerial peek at town. But we opt for Plunge, a wide slope with fat moguls along the sides that leads to Lift 9. The resort's oldest chairlift, it was installed in 1982, and now, in the era of high-speed quads, its 12.5-minute ride to the ridge is sure to feel interminable. "Trust me, your legs will need the rest," Kristen predicts. As we duck in and out of bumps, I'm struck first by how quiet it is. There are barely any other skiers on the mountain -- and this is spring break, the busiest week of the year. (Telluride's remote location, 65 miles from the Montrose Regional Airport, deters the skiing masses.) And then, halfway down, the pain strikes, searing my calves -- the effects of charging down nearly 1,000 feet of moguls. True to Telluride form, this is a hardcore mountain -- not one that caters to leisurely types with hot-chocolate habits. We have no choice but to be stoic about the unseasonably cold, dry weather that swoops in that afternoon and sticks around for the next few days. Our solution is to split time between the mountain and town. But even on Telluride's main drags, life revolves around the outdoors: The sushi chef at Honga's Lotus Petal, an Asian-fusion restaurant, is planning a kiteboarding expedition to New Zealand; the drugstore clerk talks passionately about her ski bike; a half-dozen stores cater to mountain bikers, skiers, fly-fishermen, and kayakers. At night, we stroll over to West End Tavern's margarita-soaked après scene or the hand-carved bar at the 114-year-old New Sheridan Hotel. Then on Friday, a big storm hits. We wake up early and wait for the lifts to open -- it'll be a race to the top for fresh tracks. First we take Bushwacker, sliding knee-deep in powder down its wide, curving path, dipping into the enormous moguls along the trees, and floating to the bottom. Covered in half a foot of snow, the terrain is transformed. We've hit a meteorological jackpot, skiing Telluride during a bountiful snow year, just after a storm, in conditions that must resemble the early days -- before drought hit the Southwest and when skiing was only for lusty miners. We drop onto Milk Run, which descends literally into town. Near the bottom, a group of brazen kids are getting serious air off a jump. I gaze down on Telluride's red-brick buildings, knowing that the feisty locals, those double-black-diamond-extreme runs, and that ghost town over yonder will remain exactly as they are, forever. --Claire Martin Telluride Ski Resort (from $74 per day; 800-778-8581, tellurideskiresort.com). Inn at Lost Creek (from $275; 888-601-5678, innatlostcreek.com).
Davis, West Virginia WHERE TO STAY: The Bright Morning Inn used to host lumberjacks (from $75; 866-537-5731, brightmorninginn.com). --T. Edward Nickens
Lake Placid, New York WHERE TO STAY: For a classic Adirondack experience, stay at the whitewashed Mirror Lake Inn, a former estate (from $195; 518-523-2544, mirrorlakeinn.com). --Greg Melville
Photograph by: Paul Morrison Photography WENNER MEDIA: RollingStone.com | Us Online |
|||||||||||||||