FEATURES
MJ Expedition
El Capitan | 94
They met as college students, climbing and kayaking together. Now, at crossroads in their lives, the author and his buddies come together to reconnect on the most legendary rock climb in America. BY FREDERICK REIMERS

Holloway's Paradise | 100
As Sawyer, the anti-hero on Lost, Josh Holloway is diabolically selfish. Offscreen, the genial southern gent is a trusted confidant, a devoted husband, and great to go fishing with. BY ZEV BOROW

Get Ready for Winter! | 106
Our complete guide to what's hot this winter, including secret mountaintop cabins, new boutique lodges, ski parties worth the hangover, and more. Plus: an exclusive interview with Bode Miller.

Can This Man Save Crested Butte? | 122
To stop this one-of-a-kind Colorado ski town from becoming McAspen, residents elected freak-powered ex-ski bum Alan Bernholtz mayor. BY CHRIS SOLOMON

Letter from Darfur | 128
As a physician, our correspondent was granted a rare and intimate look at the world's worst humanitarian disaster. A mission to make a difference in the teeming refugee camps of Darfur. BY DR. BOB ARNOT

Philadelphia's Boathouse Crew | 134
Meet the athletes of historic Boathouse Row, guys who live for the most grueling and graceful sport on the water: rowing. BY RICHARD RYS

ADVENTURE
30 Swimming with Sharks
It's hammerhead season in Costa Rica.
32 What's New
Why you should go to Antarctica now; adventure timeshares; more.
37 Easy Getaways
Fine cuisine in wild surroundings.
42 Adventure Guide: Safaris
Eight intimate African expeditions.
50 City Guide: Las Vegas
Vegas's first adventure hotel; more.
52 Cars: New Rental Mustang
The American muscle-car revival begins.
56 My Escapes: Bob McKnight
Quiksilver's CEO on his favorite getaways and surf spots around the globe.
58 Books
Great writers on drinking; new fiction.
60 Ask the Adventure Guide
How to get an authentic local experience.
62 Hudson River Journal
Rowing from NYC to the mouth of the Erie Canal.

ENVIRONMENTAL AFFAIRS
68 America's Top Park Ranger
Is the incoming interior secretary a true conservationist or another industry pawn?
SPECIAL REPORT: DOPING
73 Cycling's Fall Guy
Why busting Floyd Landis won't clean up his sport's drug problem.

HEALTH AND FITNESS
83 Medical Tourism
More Americans are traveling abroad for surgery. Can this be a good thing?
86 Nutrition
Tea is the new endurance drink.
88 Pre-Ski Workout
How to get primed for the slopes.
90 Health News
Online genetic testing; multivitamins.
93 Ask Dr. Bob
Advice on cold-weather workouts; more.

GEAR GUIDE
142 Style
Investment watches with rubber straps.
145 Home Theater
Entertainment systems at every price.
152 Portable GPS
A new generation of navigation systems.
154 Skis
Bindings and skis in one package.
156 Snowboards
Four new boards for every riding style.
158 New Stuff
The modernist foosball table; more.
159 Ask the Gear Guy
The world's toughest padlock; more.

Mail 20
Contributors 24
Record Book 184

On the Cover: Josh Holloway, photographed exclusively for Men's Journal by Jeff Lipsky in Oahu, Hawaii. Production by FX Group. Grooming by Laura Aguon.