FEATURES
MJ Expedition
Madagascar's Outback| 128
On this Indian Ocean island, trees seem to grow upside down and giant bats patrol the evening sky. A journey through one of the last truly wild places. BY TOM DOWNEY

Steve Irwin's Last Hunt | 136
A month before his death, the Crocodile Hunter embarked on an unfilmed expedition to track the world's most dangerous reptiles. It may have been his greatest adventure. BY ETHAN WATTERS

America's Best | 142
We surveyed experts in every field (and polled thousands of MJ readers) to find the best ski slopes, river trips, mountain routes, beaches, resorts, steak houses, watering holes, and much more.

Sailing Race Disaster | 164
During last year's Volvo Ocean Race, one sailor sacrificed safety for speed -- and was swept overboard into the frigid Atlantic. A look at a sport pushing performance to deadly extremes. BY TIM ZIMMERMANN

Starving the Parks | 172
For years the National Park Service has been underfunded. The result: Today our national treasures are dirty, dangerous, and increasingly vulnerable to exploitation. BY JOSHUA KURLANTZICK

Athletes of the Year | 184
One man dove 354 feet deep on a single breath of air. Another climbed up and skied down all 54 of Colorado's 14ers. Meet the men behind this year's amazing athletic feats. BY JASON DALEY

ADVENTURE
48 Pipeline Surfing
This month, athletes and fans flock to Oahu for the biggest surfing event of the year.
50 What's New
Off-road Segways; private jet travel for the masses; underground ski guides; more.
58 Easy Getaways
Skydiving, jet-fighting, bullriding, and more experiences to add to your holiday wish list.
66 City Guide: Denver
New restaurants, revitalized neighborhoods, and modern art make the nation's biggest ski town better than ever.
70 Adventure Guide: Belize
Beat the crowds to Latin America's untrammeled beach-and-jungle destination.
74 The Year's Best Cars
The nine most important cars, SUVs, and trucks to roll off the line in 2006.
80 My Favorite Things: Christopher Meloni
The Law & Order: SVU star talks waterskiing, motorcycling through Bali, and more.
85 Books & Screen
Winter's best fiction, including Stephen King's creepy new novel. PLUS: New DVDs.
86 Ask the Adventure Guide
Advice on renting private villas in the Caribbean; Shanghai; more.

SPECIAL REPORT: DOPING
93 A Cyclist's Stunning Confession
Lance Armstrong's former teammate talks to MJ about the admission that shocked cycling. The second article in a series.

MJ INTERVIEW
102 Arnold Schwarzenegger
America's most surprising leader on incompetent pols, steroids, and the Constitution.

HEALTH AND FITNESS
109 Drinking Smart
'Tis the season for drinking. Here's how to have a healthy relationship with alcohol.
114 SWAT Workout
Train like the cops who kick in doors and rappel down buildings for a living.
116 Ice Treatment
High-tech upgrades on the trusty ice pack bring postworkout pain relief.
120 Health News
Hybrid veggies; new migraine remedies; curative spices.
122 Ask Dr. Bob
Advice on how much protein to eat; fixing your posture; more.

GEAR GUIDE
194 Style
High-collared sweaters and woodsy new winter fragrances.
200 Gear of the Year
The year's most innovative bike, cell phone, surfboard, and more. PLUS: Readers' picks.

Mail 40
Contributors 46

On the Cover: Steve Irwin, photographed by Robin Sellick/Headpress