FEATURES
MJ Expedition
Heli-Skiing Bella Coola | 52
With help from some wild Canadian friends, the author discovers a new frontier in his quest for untouched powder: heli-skiing British Columbia from a boat. BY MICHAEL FINKEL

Matthew Fox | 58
For most actors, a hit show and a new movie would have a calming effect. But Wyoming farm boy Matthew Fox still struggles with his dark side -- and knows how to throw a party. BY ERIK HEDEGAARD

Finding Paradise | 64
When the winter frost sets in, you can either hunker down or head for the sun. MJ's 10-part guide to finding the beach of your dreams, from renting an island in Micronesia to chartering a yacht in the Caribbean.

MJ Interview: Ted Turner | 74
The man who invented 24-hour news talks about why he quit sailing, the art of giving away a billion dollars, how bison is better than beef, and what he's going to do with all that land. BY G. BRUCE KNECHT

Hemingway's Cuba | 78
Too old to fight in World War II, Ernest Hemingway hunted German subs from his fishing boat off the coast of Cuba. Our correspondent tracks the legendary writer's craziest adventure. BY PORTER FOX

Park City Cool | 82
With world-class mountain biking and fly-fishing, plus the best film festival this side of Cannes, Park City is far more than just a ski hub. Meet the men who make Utah's finest town tick. BY JASON DALEY

ADVENTURE
14 Sailing the British Virgin Islands
Uninhabited isles and steady trade winds make the BVI a boatman's dream.
16 What's New
Updated sports bars...Mailer on Hitler's childhood...ski concierges...top-shelf cachaças...Anthony Bourdain...a 7-star hotel...the perfect weekend bag...more.
26 Easy Getaways
Six Valentine's trips to remember.
28 Wheels
Pros pick the best motorcycles of the year; the new Volvo S80.
32 City Guide: New Orleans
A year and a half after Katrina, the Big Easy is back. Fishing on the bayou, new restaurants, and the return of the blues.
34 My Favorite Things: Josh Bernstein
The host of Digging for the Truth on Teddy Roosevelt, the Bolivian jungle, and the world's best scotch.

ENVIRONMENTAL AFFAIRS
37 Still Addicted to Oil
A year ago President Bush admitted America was hooked on crude. Environmental expert Bill McKibben examines why nothing has changed.

HEALTH AND FITNESS
41 Transform Your Body
A six-week plan to change your life, complete with a new workout, grooming tips, and a five-meal-a-day diet.
48 Health Tech: Brain Training
Our correspondent test-drives new video games designed to make you smarter.
50 Health News
Getting cheap drugs from Canada; why cell phones hurt your sperm; healthy oils.
51 Ask Dr. Bob
Which fish to eat -- and which to avoid; fighting anxiety; hotel-room germs.

GEAR GUIDE
88 Style
Eighties sneakers come running back.
91 The Perfect Home Workshop
Fifteen essential tools to remake your workspace, including a portable table saw and a comfortable tool belt.
94 Jackets
Stay warm with the season's best parkas, softshells, hardshells, and hybrids.
96 Winter Toys
Fireplace tools; slippers; a wood-burning hot tub; a stainless-steel flask; more.
98 Knives
The five kitchen knives every man needs.

Mail 8
Contributors 12

On the Cover: Matthew Fox, photographed on Oahu by Jeff Riedel/Contour Photos